Regency to Victorian Fashion: Silhouette Shifts & Corsets (1820s-1840s)

Fashion Before the Victorian Period. As fashion undergoes a constant evolution it is interesting to take a brief look at the styles and features of fashionable female dress before the Victorian period began in 1837. In contrast to the tightly constrained, fragile portrayal of femininity presented in the early part of Queen Victoria’s reign, the fashions dominating the early decades of the nineteenth century were almost revolutionary.

The Regency period fashions, characterized by high waistlines and slim silhouettes, allowed a greater freedom and independence than would be seen throughout the whole of the Victorian period. Inspired by the delicate draperies of classical costume, they were a far cry from the corseted wasp waists and cumbersome skirts that developed by the mid-nineteenth century.

The stiff taffeta used in this early 1840s style dress provides good body and volume for the large gathered skirt

Throughout the 1820s, the characteristic features of the Regency period were starting to change. The high waistline began to drop down to a more natural level, meaning waists were once again encased in corsets, and was further accentuated by wide belts and buckles. Low necklines still remained popular, but were filled in with fichus - scarves that filled in the gap over the top of the bust and maintained a level of modesty for daywear.

The hemlines of the skirts tended to be shorter, revealing the feet, and skirts started to grow again - as did the sleeves. By the end of the 1820s, the large gigot sleeves were so exaggerated that separate armpads were required to support their size. Large collars added further width to the top half of the body, which made for a very unusual shape.

The fashion plate from April 1830 typifies the look of what is usually called ‘the Romantic period’ perfectly. The large sleeves and hemlines are balanced by large-brimmed bonnets and provide a stark contrast to the tightly belted waists. The hair also takes on some unusual arrangements. Twisted and looped in complex ways, the most popular style was called the ‘Apollo knot’, where the hair was piled high on the head (sometimes requiring a frame to achieve its shape), decorated with flowers and ornaments and the face framed with ringlet curls.

Fig. 6.2. Fashion plate from April 1830, showing large sleeves, short hemlines and complex hair arrangements

By the time of Queen Victoria’s ascent to the throne in 1837, the fashionable look was taking on a different form. Waistlines were beginning to show a deeply pointed centre front. The sleeve had collapsed, and gave way to one that became very tightly fitted, from the dropped shoulder all the way down to the wrist. Full skirts consisting of unshaped widths of fabric had to be tightly gathered into the waistline to accommodate their fullness. Hair was parted in the centre and smoothed flat across the head, with the front sections plated and looped below the ears, and then pinned back to meet the rest of the hair which was gathered into a bun at the nape of the neck. Out of doors, women wore large bonnets that had the effect of hiding the face. The demure style of the 1840s had begun, and it is where we start our journey with our first costume project.

Fashion Overview for the 1840s. Fashions in the 1840s were modest and reserved, featuring tightly fitted bodices with sloping shoulders and low-set sleeves that severely restricted arm movement. The overall impression of fashion in the forties is presented as sombre and sedate - something many costume historians have concluded to be a reflection of the economic hardships and social unrest present in Britain at the time.

Fig. 6.3. Fashion plate from 1845, representing the demure and sober fashions of the early Victorian period

Fig. 6.4. Fashion plate from the late 1840s (exact date has been cut off) with examples of outerwear and bonnets also shown

Decoration was simple, restricted to minimal trimming and pleats. Cotton was still very popular for daywear, but silk was also widely used for both day and evening wear, as an attempt to revive the silk industry which had lost out to more popular cotton fabrics in recent decades. The curves of the bands of pleats or ruching on the bodice helped to emphasize the waist, as did the huge circumferences of the skirts, which were tightly gathered or pleated into the waistline. Necklines were often filled in with a chemisette for added modesty: this was a cotton underblouse made of a front and back only and secured in place with ties around the waist. The delicate embroidered and lace collars of these could be seen filling in any space around the neckline.

The wide hem of the skirts, which continued to grow throughout the 1840s and 1850s, required a lot of support to achieve their maximum potential. This support came in the form of many layers of petticoats which were stiffened with horse hair (or crin) or featured frills, flounces and corded channels to help maintain their shape. The bulk of these petticoats was surprisingly heavy and cumbersome. The sheer weight of the fabric restricted movement even further, and added to the general impression of the delicate female hampered by tight sleeves, a tightly corseted waist and leg-tangling skirts.